As a custom designer my role is to help plan and execute the wardrobes of customers. I lived the mantra that an educated consumer is a satisfied customer, so part of my design ethic is to show customers how to make the right decisions for their body and their needs! It is a partnership and I encourage creativity and self expression. One on One I show them how to communicate their desire. First however I usually make them their own croquis. So now I decided to repurpose these Youtube video (click”play all” to see all videos in this Playlist). I recommend taking classes if this piques your interest!
I always get questions and recently I saw this in a Google Plus communities I subscribe to.
I’m so sick and tired of blazers, skirts, and pants. Now I’m wearing denim and tunic tops. Full-figured, I want something with a style I can call my own and don’t know how to go about achieving that. Any suggestions?
SUGGESTIONS for developing your own style.
Well my suggestions for Taking charge of your style, would be
1) Pin Your Interest.. PinterestBegin pulling together images (Tearsheets) of items you really love. Pinterest is a great starting point. Organize- via color; items (skirts pants, dresses);use (work, swim, play); or style/designer.
2) Understand your Personal Body Silhoette and FIT- and what lines enhance your body.
- Technical FIT-
- Aesthetic FIT-
3) Using these as a starting point work to create a unique look by choosing, altering or creating Items you truly want!
Designing Solutions for both consumers and designers
I’m pften asked for solutions, but one on one design and fit options is way above what many can afford. How do we use technology to help both designers and consumers. One membership exclusive would be articles, discussions & salons around style and aesthetic, sizing and fit not just Fashion but creative expression and Communication. Still for web sales to increase consumersneed to be confident that the items will fit!
Designers need to understand style lines, designs and garment fit. Consumers need to understand how garments relates to their personal style choice. I Also recently came across an article from a Yahoo Blog. The advice was generic at the least not sure if it was an ad-editorial or really the writers’ recommendations. It is credited to Gina Marinelli, Refinery29. She may be a blogger/writer but I’m NOT sure she has hands on professional experience in FIT or styling (if so very limited experience). Which led me to ask-
“Who’s style advice are you taking?”
There is too much incorrect to itemize. The Body typing is simplistic for a global audience and yes, the audience is global. It’s Just Fashion right. till you check in women’s closets and realize how much is wasted due to such bad advice.
I also recalled several conversations on women and the present state of ‘dress’. While speaking to my male friends a while aback they complained that women did not know how to dress. They pointed to the fact that many were simply choosing price over personal style. They hated seeing a woman who looked like everyone else Especially in those “cheap dresses you see all over”. Men notice especially Brooklyn men. Then the second, at a meeting of designers, where it was pointed out that the consumer had no idea how to select and that ‘information” education was needed. I can recall many more conversations, often from those who simply “knew” something was “off’ but could not put their hands on it.
I decided to add an indepth style info feature as a membership plus on my blog but also from time to time take a look at fit and styling on social media presence. First up with the yahoo article I am not sure about the body classifications. While it comes “naturally” to me I had to break it down to teach others. I developed and now use a 3D system that looks at Front, Back and side in context of the elements and principles of design. I also take the following into consideration
- Technical FIT- How does it around your body- you actually have to TRY the garment on.
- Aesthetic FIT- How does it Balance with the rest of your body- most virtual 3d solutions
- Style- How does it suit your personality or needs
In Search of Good FIT– Yes there is actually a definition for “good Fit”. How does it feel and lay around your body- For this you actually have to TRY the garment on, even when it is custom made.
Clothing should be comfortable. Generally choose skirts that fit at the widest circumference first. Generally that is the hip. If the Back of your skirt hikes up, take it to the dress maker. A Good dressmaker will adjust this at the waist NOT the hem. She will ensure that the hip line is “on grain.” I am collecting a list of Professional If You are a dressmaker please submit your name here.
Testing for Technical FIT
if a garment “technically fits’ you should forget about it. For a great fit you should be able to pinch at least 1/4 to 1/2 Inch of the fabric between your index finger and the thumb (even on a “close” skirt). If you cannot it is too Tight. You should move easily, take normal strides (walking) and step up (climbing stairs), when you sit and stand the skirt should easily fall into place. If you need to tug it down… it’s not a good fit. Check your seat area if the fabric does not lay smooth put puckers, DO NOT buy the Skirt it is off grain. If in doubt snap a picture and call your dress maker or someone with EXPERTISE , NOT your best friend.
Aesthetic FIT- How does it Balance with the rest of your body- most virtual 3d solutions
Understand that there are three planes (view) Front, Back and side. This is where most “Body” typing goes awry – You are a combination of these three view. So while you may be a “pear” in front you are an hour glass from the back. The video above should help you create your croquis. Creating a personal aesthetic will mean understanding the elements of design and the principles of design. Finding a label that fits your needs will take time… or go for a custom option.
Proportion is about context
Your skirt is not simply by itself, it fits on your body and is worn with other items, The print, scale and texture all play along with the garments silhouette to accentuate or camouflage. Short torso long torso all affect this.
- scale of the pattern or print
- cut of the skirt…
- side seam & hem easiest change.
- short legs, short torso
- texture, soft rigid
- Finally size means specs. Ideally for example, the side seams of the skirt is the line of delineation, and should fall under the dropped arms. On black women that usually means a 4” or more difference between the front and back skirt hips compared to 1-2” on Caucasian women. Skirts not properly aligned may add “visual size” as well as “feel” uncomfortable and “swing’ around the body as the day evolves.The measurements used to create the garment itself, affects the fit of the garment. Few companies have done recent spec surveys. Those of us who sew understand that Ethnicity and geography (maybe diet lifestyle etc) affect those specs. So mass produced items always need adjusting.
Style- How does it suit your personality or lifestyle and/or cultural needs
- It’s not my style.
- I like it but it does not like me…
- Not for Work; Not for church…
In managing your wardrobe needs the issue of Style matters. While “trendy” may work for some it may not for others. What you purchase is also a direct connotation of your budget. How much can you spend and what use can what you cover. Building a wardrobe around a color palette and choosing print variations and length, style options around that palette can extend your wardrobe needs. What else can you wear with that skirt.
DIY or Using a Stylist
One can learn to shop for oneself. However I recommend building a relationship with a local dressmaker or custom clothier. Take you items Immediately to the shop for a second opinion and return what is needed immediately. Many who call themselves stylist have no design or fit training , be careful, ask them specifics on this type of capability. Dress alterations can be an investment, you get what you pay for so take in those garments Right after purchase. If the alteration will be too costly RETURN them. Learning to DIY is an option, but be careful of “YouTube” university. Take a professional course and practice first.
Storyboard- clockwise top right- member will learn to read and choose clothing for their unique body type combination for - Front, Back, side. Screenshot of yahoo articles prompted the question who's style. Another member plus learn to select your own color combinations and design a wardrobe palette you love. Finally on the roadmap, are tools for digital style kits. How would we serve measurement, style and fit .
Know Whose Style advice you’re reading
I’m Bonnie Sandy a tech entrepreneur but my background is fashion- custom design and FIT is my specialty. Yes I’m qualified to give such advice. I have 30 plus years fitting, designing making and selling clothing. I’ve been manipulating darts since I was twelve. I’m trained to drape make patterns and sew and have a wealth of training from my mom to professors at Fashion Institute of Technology and under several masters. I also have fitted wardrobes for Upper East Side Madames and well “Madams”. My design colleagues call me for fit advice. Most importantly I believe in training customers from 4 to 84 on FIT.
While I am now leveraging technology to Create Businesses of Choice and take local businesses global and bring Global businesses Local I believe Every Body is different and should have access to creative choices. I’m focused on SOLUTIONS;– for Shoppers, Designers and creative professionals .
#sewopen #canvazz There has to be a better way to design make and supply creative clothing Http://so.bonniesandy.com
#Bkstylesalon Curate, discuss and follow your Bkstyle Creative icons
#mybkstyle Shoppers You have a right to clothing that fits you and your style follow for sourcing designers and fit advice:– sign up at Http://vip.bkstyle.com
#diversityreport Keeping track of Diversity issues, blacks and Minorities in Tech.
#fashiontech, #Artstech, #creativetech, #makertech, #Foodtech, #musictech These are existing that you may find me using from time to time.
These are into sessions into the realm of “personal wardrobes & style”
The first natural style we introduced you to color
In the second Natural styles 2 we looked at Body shape
and in social Sourcing we delve into how social media affects our taste and choice.
How you List Your Product and Services matter to increased sales online and offline.
Apply for”COMMIT TO SUCCESS” MY Virtual Incubator PROGRAM as a BETA SIX MONTH PROGRAM July 8th 2013 to JANUARY 8TH 2014! ANSWER THIS QUESTIONNAIRE! Keep abreast of my commitment to help local businesses Globally register for Invites . I’m restructuring.and will confirm registrants to bonnieSandy.com shortly.